Scientifically Advanced Skin CareJanuary 2007
By Dave Tuttle
Your face is one of your most precious assets. Sadly, as we age, most people will display a face ravaged by time, free-radical damage, and excessive sun exposure. While you may feel young and vibrant, your face can communicate a very different state of affairs.
Each year, billions of dollars are spent on skin creams that make wild promises unsupported by scientific research. New skin care products trumpet “anti-aging, anti-wrinkle ingredients,” but in most cases, few if any of these ingredients have undergone rigorous testing and validation.
However, in laboratories around the world, scientists are testing new ingredients that reinforce the skin’s underlying architecture, limit the destructive impact of photoaging, and even activate genes that encourage nourishment and repair of the skin’s vital matrix. By reducing oxidative stress, restoring moisture, repairing signs of photoaging, and promoting healthy supportive tissues, these topical agents can literally turn back the clock on skin aging.
Daily use of topical creams that incorporate clinically proven ingredients—complemented by a program of regular exercise, restful sleep, nourishing diet, and supplementation with powerful natural antioxidants—can reverse unsightly skin aging and help restore healthy, vibrant, youthful-looking skin.
Matrixyl™ 3000, Ceramides Reduce Skin Wrinkling
To help aging baby boomers actively restore the youthful look of their skin, researchers have developed powerful new ingredients that take the science of skin care to a new level. Two of these promising new agents are Matrixyl™ 3000 and ceramides.
Matrixyl™ 3000 is a unique ingredient that consists of peptides, or short amino acid chains. It helps to lift the skin, thus minimizing the appearance of wrinkles. Matrixyl™ 3000 contains two different peptides, known as matrikines, that act as cellular messengers to promote skin restructuring and repair. These biochemicals interact with specific receptors to activate genes that are involved in cell proliferation and renewal of the collagen-rich extracellular matrix (the connective tissue between cells that provides crucial support to the skin). Both healthy cells and the extracellular matrix are essential to firm, healthy skin.1 The components of Matrixyl™ 3000 work synergistically to help restore and maintain the skin’s youthful appearance.
When cells that produce collagen and elastin were incubated for 72 hours with Matrixyl™ 3000, they synthesized significantly greater amounts of extracellular matrix, the protein-rich skeleton that provides structural support to skin. Enhancing the extracellular matrix helps “plump up” the skin, minimizing the appearance of wrinkles and creases. A clinical trial with 46 volunteers, aged 39-74, demonstrated the visible effects of Matrixyl™ 3000. After eight weeks of two daily applications of Matrixyl™ 3000, the participants had average reductions of 14% in skin roughness and 15% in wrinkle depth, while the surface occupied by deep wrinkles declined by 45%. An assessment of skin tone showed a 20% improvement during the same time frame.2
Another innovative ingredient for restoring youthful skin is a high concentration of ceramides, or lipids similar to those found in cell membranes and brain tissues. These lipids are essential in maintaining the protective functions of the skin’s outermost layer, known as the stratum corneum.3 Ceramides play an important role in generating and sustaining the water permeability barrier in the skin.4 As such, they are important for improving skin hydration, reducing susceptibility to irritation, and restoring skin integrity.5 Youthful skin is noticeably bright and glowing largely because it is well hydrated. Unfortunately, ceramide concentrations in the skin decline with age, leading to dry, rough skin.6 Topical application of ceramides has been shown to capture and bind water, which is required for the skin to remain supple, smooth, and hydrated.
Matrixyl™ 3000 and ceramides are innovative new compounds that work in synergy with the skin’s own physiology to help maintain and restore smooth, supple skin.7
Idebenone Fights Photoaging, Improves Skin Health
As adults age, their skin is more likely to exhibit the effects of photoaging, which produces negative changes in skin color, texture, and health caused by cumulative exposure to ultraviolet light. New findings suggest that antioxidant-rich, high-energy compounds may help defend against the effects of photoaging.
Free radicals damage not only proteins and DNA, but also the skin’s surface lipids. Made up of a complex mixture of sebum (an oily substance produced by the sebaceous glands) and small amounts of epidermal lipids, these surface lipids provide the body’s outermost protection against oxidative damage.8,9
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a fat-soluble antioxidant that helps prevent free-radical damage to the skin’s surface lipids. However, CoQ10 concentrations in skin decline significantly in older people.9 The loss of this protective nutrient is a likely cause of the increased incidences of skin diseases and photoaging seen in aging adults.
In fact, an eight-year Italian study found a direct link between CoQ10 levels and the progression of melanoma, the deadliest of skin cancers.10 Not only were CoQ10 concentrations in people with melanoma lower than in healthy subjects, but patients whose cancer spread (metastasized) to other tissues had CoQ10 levels below those of the metastasis-free subgroup. Clearly, CoQ10 is an important protective nutrient for aging skin.
Recognizing the importance of CoQ10 in skin health, scientists searched for related compounds that can confer even greater benefits to the skin. This search led to idebenone, a nutritional cousin, or analogue, of CoQ10. Since idebenone is a smaller molecule than CoQ10, it is better suited to penetrating the skin, where it can confer important protective effects.11
Idebenone has been shown to produce clinically visible improvements in photodamaged skin. In a study of 41 female subjects aged 30-65, applying idebenone to the face in the morning and evening for six weeks reduced skin roughness and dryness by 26%, and decreased fine lines and wrinkles by 29%.12 The subjects also exhibited a 37% increase in skin hydration and a 33% overall improvement in assessment for photodamaged skin. These improvements were primarily seen in the epidermis, though there was some increase in dermal collagen as well. Skin biopsies revealed decreased levels of an inflammatory protein, a change associated with the stimulation of collagen production. Topically applied idebenone thus improves numerous markers of skin health while reducing the visible signs of aging.
Idebenone may protect the skin through its potent antioxidant effects.12 One research team studied various antioxidants to gauge their protective effects against oxidative stress. They found that idebenone was the most effective antioxidant studied, providing more protection than CoQ10, vitamin E, kinetin, vitamin C, or lipoic acid.17 This antioxidant quality allows idebenone to inhibit lipid peroxidation, thus protecting skin cell lipids and membranes.18
Topical use of idebenone represents an important step forward in scientifically based skin care. Through its antioxidant effects, idebenone helps protect skin from the effects of oxidative stress and photoaging, restoring moisture, refining texture, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and promoting a more youthful appearance.
Pomegranate Naturally Enhances Skin Renewal
An ancient fruit with many modern health-promoting applications, pomegranate is best known for its strong antioxidant properties.19 This is due to its high concentration of phenolic compounds, such as ellagic acid.20 In addition to its applications in supporting cardiovascular health and protecting against cancer, pomegranate has now demonstrated multiple benefits as a topical skin treatment.
Pomegranate may help reverse visible signs of aging by promoting a moderate thickening of the epidermis, while maintaining healthy epidermal cell differentiation.21 The fruit extract also prolonged the life of cells in the dermis known as fibroblasts. Fibroblasts produce the skin’s essential structural fibers, including collagen and elastin. Pomegranate thus promotes regeneration of cells in the two most important layers of healthy skin, the epidermis and dermis.
As the skin ages, its ability to quickly heal cuts, abrasions, and other wounds is dramatically diminished. A study from India discovered that the high content of phenolic compounds in pomegranate greatly improves wound-healing activity, significantly reducing the number of days required for complete healing of skin wounds.22
A Japanese study found that ellagic acid potently suppresses lipid peroxidation in the skin, thus helping to guard against damage from ultraviolet radiation.20 An Israeli research team noted that pomegranate’s antioxidant activity was similar to that of green tea and much greater than that of red wine.23 The researchers also found that pomegranate demonstrates robust anti-inflammatory effects by inhibiting a biochemical pathway that fuels inflammatory changes.23
Pomegranate may also help to protect against skin cancers. Numerous studies have found that topically applied pomegranate seed and fruit extracts significantly reduce the incidence and number of skin tumors that form in experimental models of skin cancer.24,25
By protecting against photoaging, supporting skin cell regeneration, promoting wound healing, and preventing cancerous changes, pomegranate provides broad-spectrum support for aging skin.