Life Extension Magazine®

Lipid Complex dripping that improves the face’s skin

Lipid Complex Revitalizes Aging Facial Skin

Repeated exposure to UV light alters the structure of key molecules that keep skin firm, causing wrinkles, pigment irregularities, and sagging skin. A novel lipid formulation rich in essential fatty acids, palmitoyl oligopeptide, vitamin A, and marula oil restores skin moisture, leading to a more youthful appearance.

Scientifically reviewed by: Juanita Enogieru, MS, RD/N, in August 2023. Written by: Robert Goldfaden and Gary Goldfaden, MD.

As you get older, you may notice that your smooth, luminous complexion is giving way to leathery, dry skin with wrinkles and age spots.

Even though these undesirable features seem to appear overnight, they are actually the cumulative effects of repeated exposure to ultraviolet radiation (UV),1 and to a lesser degree other environmental elements. The sun’s rays generate free radicals and oxidative stress that induce lipid peroxidation and alter the structure of key molecules responsible for keeping skin firm and supple.1-5

If you tend to avoid face oils due to common fears of clogged pores and breakouts, you’re missing out on a way to offset the negative effects of ultraviolet radiation exposure and combat premature skin aging.

A novel lipid complex—formulated with clinically proven ingredients including essential fatty acids, palmitoyl oligopeptide, vitamin A, and marula oil—deeply penetrates and nourishes the different layers of the skin to produce age-reversal effects without the potential downside.

In this article, you will learn how applying this oil to the vulnerable areas of the face improves the appearance of mature, sun-damaged, dry skin, while replenishing lost lipids to restore moisture for a smoother, more youthful complexion.

Essential Fatty Acids Relieve Dry And Scaly Skin

Essential Fatty Acids Relieve Dry And Scaly Skin  

The outermost layer of the epidermis (stratum corneum) consists of dead protein-rich cells that overlap one another to form a brick wall,6 with a lipid matrix of cholesterol, ceramides, and fatty acids acting as cement to hold it together.7,8 This “brick and mortar” structure provides a protective shield against environmental insults, while locking in key nutrients and moisture to keep skin soft and moist.9

Although the epidermis is highly active in lipid production, it cannot synthesize two polyunsaturated fatty acids: linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3).10,11 Therefore, these essential fatty acids must be acquired from the diet or supplementation.

Most omega-6 fats are derived from vegetable oils like corn, soybean, and safflower,12 whereas omega-3s are found in flaxseed, walnuts, oily fish, and supplemental fish oil.13-15

Linoleic acid (LA) contributes to the formation of ceramides on the skin’s surface, maintaining epidermal barrier function and hydration to prevent age-related drying and flaking.16,17 When applied topically to linoleic acid-deficient humans, linoleic acid-rich oils completely reversed the clinical manifestations of skin dryness and scaliness associated with its deficiency.18,19 In addition, linoleic acid is a precursor for the synthesis of gamma-linolenic acid, which provides welcome relief from inflammatory skin conditions like eczema and acne.20-22 Lastly, linoleic acid can be converted to arachidonic acid, a main constituent of cell membranes, which acts to regulate inflammatory responses.23,24

Although omega-3s comprise only a small proportion of total fatty acids in the skin,25,26 alpha-linolenic acid (ALA), eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA), and docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) play an important role in skin health.

Omega-3s have been shown to reinforce the skin by protecting it from dryness and reducing skin sensitivity.27 Research shows that EPA competes with arachidonic acid for incorporation into cell membranes and for the enzyme cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2),28-31 with increased EPA producing less inflammatory compounds in response to sun exposure.32 This explains the result of a human study in which topical application of omega-3 rich sardine oil extract decreased UVB-induced skin redness by 24.5%.33 Additional research shows that omega-3s modulate the immune response of the epidermis to sunlight, protecting against autoimmune skin disorders including psoriasis, systemic lupus erythematosus, and melanoma.34

As we age, essential fatty acids are depleted due to UV exposure,35 dry air, and harsh soaps,36,37 making their replenishment vital for preserving healthy, youthful skin.38

A drawback of essential fatty acids is their high susceptibility toward oxidation, which limits their stability in topical formulations and often causes an undesirable odor or skin discoloration.39-42 However, scientists have developed a unique topical blend of olus and Camelina sativa seed oils with natural tocopherols that increase its oxidative stability.40 This topical oil blend takes twice as long to oxidize when exposed to UV light compared to a control oil mixture with the same content of polyunsaturated fatty acids.40 The result is a safe and efficient delivery of an optimal ratio of essential fatty acids directly to the skin, replenishing lipid content to relieve scaliness and dryness for a more youthful facial appearance.

What You Need To Know
Restore A Youthful Complexion

Restore A Youthful Complexion

  • Long-term exposure to sunlight degrades essential lipids and alters the structure of key molecules that keeps skin firm and supple, resulting in the telltale signs of photoaging such as wrinkles, irregular pigmentation, and loss of elasticity.
  • A novel lipid complex has been formulated with clinically proven ingredients that, when applied to the face, improves the appearance of mature, dry, sun-damaged skin, restoring moisture for a smoother, more youthful complexion.
  • Essential polyunsaturated fatty acids linoleic acid (omega-6) and alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3) support the skin’s barrier function and improve hydration to relieve dry and scaly skin.
  • Palmitoyl oligopeptide reverses skin wrinkling in humans, with one study showing a mean reduction of nearly 20% in wrinkle depth, while the mean volume of a primary wrinkle and the surface area occupied by wrinkles over 200 microns diminished by 23% and 39%, respectively.
  • Marula oil has outstanding soothing and hydrating properties, as well as powerful free radical-fighting phytonutrients that protect the skin against free radicals and oxidative stress.
  • Vitamin A enhances the skin’s capacity to renew itself, in turn reducing the visible signs of aging.

Palmitoyl Oligopeptide Reverses Wrinkling In Humans

Many of the skin changes associated with premature aging of the face stem from repeated sun exposure. The sun’s rays generate reactive oxygen species and oxidative stress that eventually overwhelm the natural defense mechanisms in the skin, leading to wrinkles, loss of elasticity, dry texture, and irregular pigmentation that characterize photoaging.2,3,43,44

While essential fatty acids provide substantial photoprotection, an oil-soluble peptide called palmitoyl oligopeptide has been shown to kick start the repair process of sun-damaged skin by triggering new production of key molecules such as collagen and hyaluronic acid.45,46 In an interesting ex vivo study, meaning research performed on living tissues outside the body, scientists found that human skin biopsies irradiated with UVA light showed a significant degradation of collagen. But after being treated with palmitoyl oligopeptide, these skin samples exhibited increased collagen density compared to a control. Remarkably, this skin regeneration was observed in just one week!47

When topically tested on humans in randomized clinical trials, palmitoyl oligopeptide shows a tremendous ability to rejuvenate photoaged facial skin.45,46,48,49 The visible improvements were especially noteworthy in one study involving 24 participants aged 34-79 with crow’s feet. Compared to a placebo, researchers observed that a cream containing palmitoyl oligopeptide applied twice daily to the targeted area for two months reduced mean wrinkle depth by nearly 20%, while the mean volume of a primary wrinkle was diminished by 23%, and the surface area occupied by wrinkles over 200 microns decreased by 39%. There was also a beneficial effect on skin roughness, with an average decrease of 16%.45,46

Naturally Soothe And Hydrate With Marula Oil

For centuries, oil extracted from the fruit of the marula tree (Sclerocarya birrea) has been prized among South African women for its outstanding soothing and hydrating properties that result from its high content of fatty acids, especially oleic acid.50 With powerful nutrients such as flavonoids, vitamin C, and catechins, marula oil neutralizes free radicals that wreak havoc on the skin’s underlying architecture.51 Furthermore, its wealth of vitamin C suggests that marula oil boosts collagen production to revitalize aging skin and reduce the appearance of wrinkles.50-53 As a rich source of phytonutrients that fight free radicals, marula oil strongly resists oxidation and, therefore, is highly stable in topical preparations.50

Vitamin A Enhances Skin Renewal

Retinol, a form of vitamin A, increases keratinocyte proliferation and epidermal thickness to combat wrinkles and fine lines, as well as improve evenness of skin tone.54 In the deeper layer of the skin known as the dermis, retinol halts the breakdown of collagen and stimulates its synthesis in both naturally aged and photoaged skin.55 These beneficial effects are related to the conversion of retinol to retinoic acid inside cells, where it facilitates cell-signaling to enhance the skin’s capacity to renew itself.56

Summary

The sun’s harmful ultraviolet rays generate free radicals and oxidative stress that induce lipid peroxidation and alter the structure of key molecules responsible for keeping the skin firm and supple. The result is the telltale signs of photoaging—wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, and loss of elasticity. Fortunately, a novel lipid complex has been formulated with clinically proven ingredients, including essential fatty acids, palmitoyl oligopeptide, vitamin A, and marula oil. This facial oil visibly improves the appearance of sun-damaged, mature, dry skin, while replenishing lipids to restore moisture for a smoother, more youthful complexion.

If you have any questions on the scientific content of this article, please call a Life Extension® Health Advisor at 1-866-864-3027.

Gary Goldfaden, MD, is a clinical dermatologist and lifetime member of the American Academy of Dermatology. He is the founder of Academy Dermatology in Hollywood, FL, and Cosmesis Skin Care. Dr. Goldfaden is a member of the Life Extension® Foundation’s Medical Advisory Board. All Cosmesis products are available online.

Editor's Note

Science continues to evolve, and new research is published daily. As such, we have a more recent article on this topic: Topical Peptides Rebuild Youthful Skin

References

  1. Imokawa G. Recent advances in characterizing biological mechanisms underlying UV-induced wrinkles: a pivotal role of fibrobrast-derived elastase. Arch Dermatol Res. 2008 Apr;300 Suppl 1:S7-20.
  2. Fisher GJ, Kang S, Varani J, et al. Mechanisms of photoagingand chronological skin aging. Arch Dermatol. 2002 Nov;138(11): 1462-70.
  3. Briganti S, Picardo M. Antioxidant activity, lipid peroxidation and skin diseases. What’s new. J Eur Acad Dermatol Venereol. 2003 Nov;17(6):663-9.
  4. Rabotyagova OS, Cebe P, Kaplan DL. Collagen structural hierarchy and susceptibility to degradation by ultraviolet radiation. Mater Sci Eng C Mater Biol Appl. 2008 Dec 1;28(8):1420-29.
  5. Iurin VO, Kim IuA, Muzafarov EN. Structural changes in lipid membranes and collagen irradiated with UV light and the protective effect of plant extracts. Biofizika. 2004 Jul-Aug;49(4):666-73.
  6. Trommer H, Neubert RH. Overcoming the stratum corneum: the modulation of skin penetration. A review. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2006;19(2):106-21.
  7. Nemes Z, Steinert PM. Bricks and mortar of the epidermal barrier. Exp Mol Med. 1999 Mar;31(1):5-19.
  8. Baroni A, Buommino E, De Gregorio V, et al. Structure and function of the epidermis related to barrier properties. Clin Dermatol. 2012 May-Jun;30(3):257-62.
  9. Madison KC. Barrier function of the skin: “la raison d’etre” of the epidermiss. J Invest Dermatol. 2003 Aug;121(2): 231-41.
  10. Pappas, A. Epidermal surface lipids. Dermatoendocrinol. 2009 Mar-Apr;1(2):72-6.
  11. Khnykin D, Miner JH, Jahnsen F. Role of fatty acid transporters in epidermis: implications for health and disease. Dermatoendocrinol. 2011 Apr;3(2):53-61.
  12. Simopoulos AP. Essential fatty acids in health and chronic disease. Am J Clin Nutr. 1999 Sep;70(3 Suppl):560S-9S.
  13. Deckelbaum, R.J. and Torrejon, C. The omega-3 fatty acid nutritional landscape: Health benefits and sources. J Nutr. 2012 Mar; 142(3):587S-91S.
  14. Meyer BJ, Mann NJ, Lewis JL, et al. Dietary intakes and food sources of omega-6 and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids. Lipids. 2003 Apr;38(4):391-8.
  15. Koski RR. Omega-3-acid Ethyl esters (Lovaza) for severe hypertriglyceridemia. Pharm Therap. 2008;33(5):271-303.
  16. Vicanova J, Weerheim AM, Kempenaar JA, Ponec M. Incorporation of linoleic acid by cultured human keratinocytes. Arch Dermatol Res. Jul-Aug;291(7-8):405-12.
  17. Breiden B, Gallala H, Doering T, Sandhoff K. Optimization of submerged keratinocyte cultures for the synthesis of barrier ceramides. Eur J Cell Biol. 2007 Dec;86(11-12):657-73.
  18. Prottey C, Hartop PJ, Press M. Correction of the cutaneous manifestations of essential fatty acid deficiency in man by application of sunflower-seed oil to the skin. J Invest Dermatol. 1975;64:228-34.
  19. Press M, Hartop PJ, Prottey C. Correction of essential fatty-acid deficiency in man by the cutaneous application of sunflower-seed oil. Lancet. 1974;1:597-8.
  20. Simon D, Eng PA, Borelli S, et al. Gamma-linolenic acid levels correlate with clinical efficacy of evening primrose oil in patients with atopic dermatitis. Adv Ther. 2014;31:180-8.
  21. Lee HR, Kim SW, Kim MS, et al. The efficacy and safety of gamma-linolenic acid for the treatment of acne vulgaris. Int J Dermatol. 2014 Mar;53(3): 199-200.
  22. Horrobin DF. Essential fatty acid metabolism and its modification in atopic eczema. Am J Clin Nutr. 2000 Jan;71(1 Suppl):367S-72S.
  23. Kozuka T, Francis DM, Greaves MW. Arachidonic acid metabolites and the skin. Ann Acad Med Singapore. 1983 Jan;12(1):87-91.
  24. Salem N Jr, Pawlosky R, Wegher B, Hibbeln J. In vivo conversion of linoleic acid to arachidonic acid in human adults. Prostaglandins Leukot Essent Fatty Acids. 1999 May-Jun;60(5-6):407-10.
  25. Ziboh VA, Miller CC, Cho Y. Metabolism of polyunsaturated fatty acids by skin epidermal enzymes: generation of antiinflammatory and antiproliferative metabolites. Am J Clin Nutr. 2000;71:361S-6S.
  26. Available at: http://lpi.oregonstate.edu/mic/micronutrients-health/skin-health/nutrient-index/essential-fatty-acids. Accessed May 11, 2015.
  27. Neukam K, De Spirt S, Stahl W, et al. Supplementation of flaxseed oil diminishes skin sensitivity and improves skin barrier function and condition. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2011;24(2):67-74.
  28. Bagga D, Wang L, Farias-Eisner R, Glaspy JA, Reddy ST. Differential effects of prostaglandin derived from omega-6 and omega-3 polyunsaturated fatty acids on COX-2 expression and IL-6 secretion. Proc Natl Acad Sci U S A. 2003 Feb;100(4):1751-6.
  29. Lands WE, Libelt B, Morris A, et al. Maintenance of lower proportions of (n - 6) eicosanoid precursors in phospholipids of human plasma in response to added dietary (n - 3) fatty acids. Biochim Biophys Acta. 1992 Dec 10;1180(2):147-62.
  30. Arnold C, Markovic M, Blossey K, et al. Arachidonic acid-metabolizing cytochrome P450 enzymes are targets of {omega}-3 fatty acids. J Biol Chem. 2010 Oct 22;285(43):32720-33.
  31. Du ZY, Ma T, Winterthun S, Kristiansen K, Frøyland L, Madsen L. Beta-oxidation modulates metabolic competition between eicosapentaenoic acid and arachidonic acid regulating prostaglandin E(2) synthesis in rat hepatocytes-Kupffer cells. Biochim Biophys Acta. 2010 Apr;1801(4):526-36.
  32. Pilkington SM, Rhodes LE, Al-Aasswad NM, et al. Impact of EPA ingestion on COX-and LOX-mediated eicosanoid synthesis in skin with and without pro-inflammatory UVR-challenge-report of a randomized controlled study in humans. Mol Nutr Food Res.2014 Mar;58(3):580-90.
  33. Puglia C, Tropea S, Rizza L, Santagati NA, Bonina F. In vitro percutaneous absorption studies and in vivo evaluation of anti-inflammatory activity of essential fatty acids (EFA) from fish oil extracts. Int J Pharm. 2005;299:41-8.
  34. McCusker MM, Grant-Kels JM. Healing fats of the skin: the structural and immunologic roles of the omega-6 and omega-3 fatty acids. Clin Dermatol. 2010;28:440-51.
  35. Kim EJ, Jin XJ, Kim YK, et al. UV decreases the synthesis of free fatty acids and triglycerides in the epidermis of human skin in vivo, contributing to development of skin photoaging. J Dermatol Sci. 2010 Jan;57(1):19-26.
  36. Bhushan B, Chen S, Ge S. Friction and durability of virgin and damaged skin with and without skin cream treatment using atomic force microscopy. Glatzel T, Schwarz UD, eds. Beilstein Journal of Nanotechnology. 2012;3:731-46.
  37. Del Rosso JQ, Levin J. The clinical relevance of maintaining the functional integrity of the stratum corneum in both healthy and disease-affected skin. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2011;4(9):22-42.
  38. Wang WD, Shen JH, Wang JL, Qin GY. Raman spectroscopy analysis of impact of UV radiation on linolenic acid oxidation. Guang Pu Xue Yu Guang Pu Fen Xi. 2010 Nov;30(11):2989-92.
  39. Guichardant M, Bacot S, Moliere P, Lagarde M. Hydroxy-alkenals from the peroxidation of n-3 and n-6 fatty acids and urinary metabolites. Prostaglandins Leukot Essent Fatty Acids. 2006 Sept;75(3):179-82.
  40. Product monograph: Lipex® Omega3/6. AAK. August 2015.
  41. Hayashi N, Togawa K, Yanagisawa M, Hosogi J, Mimura D, Yamamoto Y. Effect of sunlight exposure and aging on skin surface lipids and urate. Exp Dermatol. 2003;12 Suppl 2:13-7.
  42. Sarkar R, Arora P, Garg KV. Cosmeceuticals for hyperpigmentation: what is available? J Cutan Aesthet Surg. 2013;6(1):4-11.
  43. Kozina LS, Borzova IV, Arutiunov VA, Ryzhak GA. The role of oxidative stress in skin aging. Adv Gerontol. 2012;25(2):2.
  44. Tran TN, Schulman J, Fisher DE. UV and pigmentation: molecular mechanisms and social controversies. Pigment Cell Melanoma Res. 2008;21(5):509-16.
  45. Available at: http://www.smartskincare.com/treatments/topical/palmitoyl-oligopeptide-palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7-matrixyl-3000.html . Accessed on May 31, 2014.
  46. Todorov, G. 1. Matrixyl 3000 (palmitoyl oligopeptide & palmitoyl-tetrapeptide-7). Back to the future of anti-aging skin care. 2. MatrixylTM 3000 synopsis from Sederma Corporation.
  47. Lintner K, Peschard O. Biologically active peptides: from a laboratory bench curiosity to a functional skin care product. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2000 Jun;22(3):207-18.
  48. Watson REB, Ogden S, Cotterell LF, et al. A cosmetic ‘anti-ageing’ product improves photoaged skin in double-blind, randomized controlled trial. Br J Dermatol. Aug 2009;161(2):419-26.
  49. Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, et al. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005 Jun;27(3):155-60.
  50. Vermaak I, Kamatou GPP, Mofoken BK, Viljoen. African seed oils of commercial importance- cosmetic applications. S Afr J Bot. 2011;77:920-33.
  51. Ojewole JA, Mawoza T, Chiwororo WD, Owira PM. Sclerocarya birrea (A. Rich) Hochst. [Marula] (Anacardiacea): a review of its phytochemistry, pharmacology, toxicology and its ethnomedicinal uses. Phytother Res. 2010;24(5):633-9.
  52. Fitzpatrick RE, Rostan EF. Double-blind, half-face study comparing topical vitamin C and vehicle for rejuvenation of photodamage. Dermatol Surg. 2002 Mar;28(3):231-6.
  53. Boyera N, Galey I, Bernard BA. Effect of vitamin C and its derivatives on collagen synthesis and cross-linking by normal human fibroblasts. Int J Cosmet Sci. 1998 Jun;20(3):151-8.
  54. Bellemere G, Stamatas GN, Bruere V, et al. Antiaging action of retinol: from molecular to clinical. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2009;22(4):200-9.
  55. Varani J, Warner RL, Gharaee-Kermani M, et al. Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2000 Mar;114(3):480-6.
  56. Blomhoff R, Blomhoff HK. Overview of retinoid metabolism and function. J Neurobiol. 2006 Jun;66(7):606-30.